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Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Captivating Calle Crisologo

Cafe Leona Vigan Lunch -007.jpg
The most beautiful street in the Philippines can be found in Vigan -- Calle Crisologo.
It was restored to its pre-war beauty with its cobbled streets and old Spanish houses. It is the only town during World War II that was saved from destruction because of a love story.
Legend has it that a Japanese General, who married a Filipina in Vigan, promised the parish priest that he would save the town from destruction from the retreating Japanese if he would agree to take care of his family.
It is not only a preserved historical street like the ones in Intramuros, but it is full of life, especially during the Festival of the Arts.
Cafe Leona Vigan Lunch -006.jpg
Leona Florentino welcomes you to Calle Crisologo.
She is considered as the "mother of Philippine women's literature" and the "bridge from oral to literary tradition" (wikipedia)
In the Philippine Historical Committee 1958 marker, she is described as:
"Foremost Ilocano poetress,
subtle satirist and playwright. Born in Vigan, Ilocos Sur 19
April 1849. Daughter of Marcelino Florentino and Isabel Florentino and mother of the late Isabelo de los Reyes. Distant cousin of Rizal. A poet at the age of ten. Her
works in Spanish and Ilocano
were later exhibited in the
'Exposicion General de Filipinas', Madrid, 1887 and in the 'Exposition Internationale', Paris
1889. Her name with a list
of some of her works appeared in the 'Bibliotheque Internationale des Quevres des Femmes', edited by Madame Andzia Wolkska, 1889. Died 4 October 1884."




Calle Crisologo-13.jpgWalking along Calle Crisologo is a must for every Filipino seeking to understand our heritage.

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Calle Crisologo is one of the streets in the Philippines where you can still see and ride an actual calesa. In Manila, you can also do this in Intramuros or Binondo.
Abel Iloko weave is also another signature trademark of Vigan. Simple hand towels are made elegant because of the weave.  Most Filipinos buy the table runners, hand towels and the blankets.
(Prices change depending on how well you negotiate. :) )

Calle Crisologo-39.jpgCalle Crisologo is also home to souvenir shops and interesting Filipino products, like this colorful walis tambo.

Calle Crisologo-51.jpgLucy's is the last remaining Antique Shop in Vigan.

Calle Crisologo-57.jpgDr. Vasquez (of Cafe Juanita) introduced me to the world of antiques and showed me how to distinguish a vintage one from a reproduction.

Calle Crisologo-47.jpgIt was awesome to see him negotiate with Lucy for this antique carnival glass.

Lucy's Antique Shop
#14 Crisologo St., Heritage Village, Vigan City Ilocos Sur
Contact Person: Lucila C. Barba
Telephone: +63 917 5680051
Email address: lucysantique@yahoo.com
Calle Crisologo-28.jpg Calle Crisologo-26.jpg
Calle Crisologo is photogenic in any angle. During the fiesta, they sometimes put up 3D photo walls to add to the fun.

Calle Crisologo-43.jpgStreet food like fishballs become enjoyable because of the street ambiance.

Calle Crisologo-17.jpgDirty ice cream too!

Cafe Leona Vigan Lunch -008.jpgCafe Leona is the landmark restaurant along Calle Crisologo because it is near the plaza. The ambiance is uniquely Vigan, but the food is just OK.

Calle Crisologo-36.jpgCommercialized restaurants like Mang Inasal are required to keep the old Spanish town facade.

Calle Crisologo-11.jpgThe best time to visit is during Vigan's Festival of the Arts (around May 1) where the entire street is adorned with Abel Iloko weave and the locals compete for the best Vigan House Abel Decorations.

Calle Crisologo (Binatbatan)-84.jpgAlso, during this fiesta, don't miss the Binatbatan Street Dance Festival and the Calesa Parade.

Binatbatan Festival

Calle Crisologo (Binatbatan)-94.jpgThe street dance honors the making of Abel Iloko (woven cloth), a traditional craft in Vigan.

Calle Crisologo (Binatbatan)-106.jpg"Batbat" is the first step in making the "Abel" weave, where Ilocanos beat the cotton pods with two bamboo sticks to separate the seeds from the fluff.

Calle Crisologo (Binatbatan)-104.jpg 
The street dance showcases the vibrant colors of the weave, which is distinctly Vigan!

Calesa Parade
Calle Crisologo (Kalesa Parade)-71.jpgThe Calesa Parade is a must-watch for kids. Themed calesas (like this one, honoring the Sinait Garlic of Ilocos Sur) march down the street to the delight of onlookers.

Calle Crisologo (Kalesa Parade)-79.jpgThe participants are quite creative with their 3D displays, and they are getting more competitive each year.

Calle Crisologo (Kalesa Parade)-83.jpgMy personal favorite. :) It is like a diorama on a calesa.

Calle Crisologo Nights
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The best part of the Calle Crisologo experience is enjoying a cold San Miguel Premium or Cerveza Negra to cap the day.
Don't leave Vigan without experiencing Calle Crisologo at night!

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