Dining in Mactan Island’s ‘sutukil’ restaurants

Photo by Marlen Limpag

The staff prepares to weigh the fish picked by a customer from a selection of seafood, before cooking it the sutukil way.

Mactan Island in Cebu is known for its posh resorts and world-class hotels like Shangri-La as well as eateries that specialize in three methods of cooking seafood — sugba (grilled), tuwa (stewed), kilaw (raw) or sutukil (a combination of the first syllables of the three words).
While such dishes are ordinary fare in many restaurants in Cebu, what's special about the eateries in Mactan is they offer to have a single order of fish done in those three methods.

Of course, you will have to pick a big fish so the tail half of it can be grilled, the flesh from the remaining half scraped off the bones and prepared raw in vinegar and spices, and the head part becomes soup or stew.
Sutukil, though, is not anymore an offering limited to that row of open wooden eateries built over the shallows in the village of Mactan but it is in this place where it first gained prominence.

Not too keen on fish? Don't worry, they also have shrimps, crabs, squid, and shells cooked the way you want it.

The food is enough to make your eating experience memorable, but you can make it more worthwhile if you keep these handy tips in mind.

Photo by Marlen Limpag

Customers at one of the sutukil eateries choose from the seafood displayed at the buying area.

  Be ready to pay high. How much will you spend for a good meal in sutukil? At least P500 pesos or more if you come in as a group and you're footing the bill. You should also keep in mind that the price of the seafood is different from the cost you pay for cooking it.

Don't expect anything fancy. It's nowhere near five-star. The wooden tables are cheap as are the plastic tablecloth, chairs, and utensils. The servers are in shirts and jeans. You do get to dine with the view of the sea and the mangroves with their occasional bird visitors.

Expect great service but be prepared for the worst. Most strive to offer quality service to customers, whether locals or foreigners, but be prepared for less, especially if there are several other diners. During the many times I've been there, I never had any bad experience, but a friend who visited the place while on vacation said customer service was virtually non-existent as at that time the place was packed.
In my case, eatery people directed us to the best spots, answered questions with incredible knowledge and politeness, and were attentive to our needs.

Mario Alabastro, 28, also only has good things to say. "We took the time to enjoy the food. When we're done, we noticed that we were the only ones left. But they never asked us to leave or showed any hint of impatience. They just let us enjoy the food."

Doris Tiston-Banawa, though, had the opposite experience. It might be that weekends and peak tourist seasons are not the best days to eat there.

Photo by Marlen Limpag

Grilled, stewed, and prepared raw are the three methods by which fish is served at the sutukil eateries in Mactan, Cebu. Feel free to add shrimps, pork, crabs, and squid to your menu.

  Do tip. If you're given great food and service, you don't have any excuse not to do so. In my case, it was more than just for their satisfactory service. It's my little way of helping out the restaurant crew who depend solely on the restaurant for their sustenance. I remember a Boholana, who was just turning 14, spending her summer vacation working there so she can have some cash for the incoming school year.

Take time to choose your eatery. Don't let those paid-on-commission basis "barkers" pressure you into choosing one too soon. Compare prices and see if the seafood is fresh. You can even go inside and check if the view appeals to you.

Act like the locals. There's no better way to do this than by arriving at the area aboard a jeepney. You pay a minimal fare and avoid getting taken for a ride by unscrupulous taxi drivers. Take one with the Punta Engaño signboard. The eateries are just 30 minutes away from central Lapu-Lapu City, which shares Mactan Island with the town of Cordova.

A gorgeous view, scrumptious seafood meals, and great company: all these make for an unforgettable sutukil experience.

By Milafel Hope Dacanay, lemonsito.wordpress.com